AWARD winning British jewellery designer, Andrew Geoghegan meticulously creates his stunning pieces with only the best stone setters in the world. When you see this name, think of three things: style, elegance and luxury.
Andrew was recently named on the Hot 100 of the jewellery industry’s most inspiring stars and was featured in the Financial Times How to Spend It column.
At university Andrew studied 3D design and it was at this point where Andrew became fascinated how you could combine set gemstones and metal. “This was the start of my love affair with jewellery design,” he tells Pillow Magazine.
Andrew has many words to explain why he loves designing jewellery: Personal expression, precision, perfection, expressions of love. They are all combined with “huge amounts of passion for his craft,” he says.
Andrew’s speciality and favourite piece to design are one of the same: the ring, with an excellence in creating engagement and cocktail rings. He says: “I strive toward creating beautifully fluid designs that are made with an attention to detail rarely seen in jewellery today.”
For Andrew, rings are very comfortable yet challenging to create. Additionally, he explains: “Designing whilst keeping in mind the end goal really focuses the mind on creating a truly incredible piece.”
Andrew says inspiration to design can come from anywhere, adding: ‘The more relaxed I am, the more flowing my designs are.”
Lately, Andrew has been reinventing jewellery classics by paying homage to them but with the AG twist.
More importantly, as a new father – congratulations! – it is safe to say that Andrew’s inspiration to design has changed slightly: “This year has seen my designs take on a slightly more delicate form; some might be inclined to say this has something to do with the birth of my son late last year – perhaps I’ve softened slightly?!”
If so, the pieces are still as spectacular and intricate as ever!
“There is nothing quite like the AG collection in terms of style, quality, timeless appeal and attention to detail,” Andrew says.
Andrew explains that his design approach can be very “physical” in terms of manipulating the metal such as twisting and dividing it. This is so that the metal can “produce an intriguing and flowing form.”
A catchy slogan is needed for any company. AG’s is “in pursuit of the ‘perfect’ piece” and Pillow Mag asked Andrew how he thought of this statement.
Andrew explains: “It came early on in my career when I wanted to sum up what I aim for. I’ve got a typical frustrated designers mind and am always striving for higher quality, be it the quality of the setting, goldsmithing or simply the design itself.
“I’m forever on the lookout for new ways to manipulate metal and seek out world-class setters to help me achieve the look I envisage.
“‘The perfect piece’ is basically unachievable in my mind, so this equally unachievable statement is both the core and future of my business. It keeps me on my toes along with the rest of my team. It also announces to our customers that we are always striving to create exceptional pieces for them.”
With this in mind, Andrew’s pinnacle moment during his career was the creation of the Reveal ring.
He says: “It is as close to perfection as we have been yet!”
There is no doubt that his customers and retailers believe that his other cocktail and engagement rings are perfection also, but in Andrew’s mind, this is the only ring which is the “perfect combination of designer and commercial. It is totally unique.”
As with every job, bad must come with good, so when asking Andrew what the best and worst aspects of his job are, his answers complicate matters a little. “The best is loving my job,” he says. “But the worst is loving my job too much!”
He admits that his line of work is the most rewarding and satisfying job a person can have, whilst it is also “incredibly frustrating and tough at the same time.”
For Andrew, it is always a learning curve. There is so much more to learn and the possibilities are endless which is why he never settles.
“I never compromise on the detail that goes into each piece which is why when it’s finished I’ve learnt even more about what is possible,” he says.
The unique cocktail rings are the speciality of the AG collection, so Pillow asked Andrew what the process was in creating these exquisite pieces.
In this collection of rings, Andrew is all about showing off ”as the pieces are all about impact.”
As with any design, there is a meticulous process. This includes the initial sketching of the ring followed by CAD (computer aided design) work. Afterwards comes “constant refining and refining again of the design until happy.”
Andrew says that step four consists of creating a “life size resin from which I can check all the proportions with some more tweaks… Before long, the piece is realised in precious metal and sumptuous gemstones.”
But he does admit that there have been many occasion where the first piece is not right and it is back to the CAD.
Andrew says: “All this hard work is totally worth it – I know the meticulous effort and energy with goes into each piece which makes it just that little bit more amazing.”
This man is a perfectionist.
With respect to the stones used in each ring, Andrew says: “I am particularly fond of Asscher cut diamonds because of their understated elegance and art-deco leanings.
“I wouldn’t say I have a preferred coloured stone as each one can have their own individual charm and delight. I must admit I am enjoying working with large coloured stones at the moment, maybe due to their sheer colourful impact.”
It’s time for Pillow Mag’s last question: If you could be anything else in the world, what would you be?
Andrew replies with an intriguing yet baffling answer: “Easy. A monk.”
Visit Andrew’s website at www.andrewgeoghegan.com.